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San Sebastian: A Journey into the Past
A paradise in the mountains, built upon the mineral riches of the region
It is unavoidable. A trip to San Sebastian del Oeste, (a 90-minute drive from Puerto Vallarta) is an encounter with the past. San Sebastian is an old mining town in the mountains, which after the boom has remained dormant and has kept its image unaltered. Its outline has not changed since 1779.
The trip begins early in the morning and along the drive, there is a rapid ascension from sea level to 1,480 meters above sea level. It can be clearly perceived how the tropical forest is left behind to give way to the sub deciduous mixed forest, only to see it replaced with the pine-oak forest soon after.
The scenery changes dramatically as you leave the Valley of Banderas on the way to the West Sierra Madre Mountains. Temperature also drops a few degrees as you drive up to the mountains. Magical, breathtaking views await the traveler along the road.
As you come near San Sebastian the paved road transforms into a cobblestone road leading to the village, head of the municipality of the same name; that’s probably the first indication you are traveling back in time.
When you enter the village crossing the stone bridge that gives access to the center of town, you can almost feel the stomping of the mule trains that carried materials and merchandises from and to the Real de Minas, which in its golden era had a population of 20,000, according to some authors.
Today, it is clear, history remains. History told by the elders who still recall the times before modern technology. History that is imprinted on the facades of the buildings around the plaza, and in the interior décor that speaks of times of splendor, when every house showed decorations on walls and ceilings, reminiscent of the old European palaces. History that pervades the wooden furniture –ennobled by decades- involuntary survivors to the generations they have served.
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History that can be tasted in the dishes cooked by a woman who serves them on a table in the corridor, with a commanding view of the bell tower and the red tile roofs, spreading over the narrow valley as a strangely cubist tapestry.
Today, San Sebastian is a town of approximately 600 inhabitants, and can be easily toured in a few hours. Its main attractions are the colonial architecture, the San Sebastian parish dating from 1608, with an adjacent small museum of archaeology and history; gastronomy, candies and preserves, made of regional fruits, just like the fruit punch, which is made of fruits and berries that are indigenous to the region.
In the outskirts of San Sebastian, raicilla, the local mescal, is distilled in an artisanal fashion, just as it has been for generations. The region also produces coffee of excellent quality. A visit to the quinta just outside town where coffee beans are cultivated, roasted and ground is educational as it is a gift to your sense of smell and your taste buds.
Nearby haciendas, like Hacienda Jalisco are also an attraction, the historic remains of a lifestyle and times of great prosperity that are difficult to imagine in such a remote place like this.
San Sebastian is an excellent choice for a one day trip from Puerto Vallarta, but should one fall for its idyllic tranquility, one can stay in a stately home, as several have been turned into hotels and bed and breakfast. There are also restaurants around the plaza where Mexican and international food can be found.
When you travel to San Sebastian with Nature Vallarta, Certified Tour Guide Gerardo Hernandez recommends leaving at 9:00 a.m. when he picks you and your party up from your hotel or condominium. He also recommends wearing warm clothes and comfortable shoes.
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gerardomexico@yahoo.com.mx
Gerardo
Hernández Vázquez
Certified Bilingual Naturalist Guide
 + (52) (322) 227 9750
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco México
Photos Gerardo Hernández & Ma Guadalupe Lomeli
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